Diet
Many
written
sources
inform us about
the Byzantine
diet. The quality and variety of food was heavily dependent on
the crop and livestock production of each region, as well as on family
resources. The
wealthy
were
able to
satisfy
their desire for
rare foods
imported from
foreign
and
sometimes
remote areas,
whereas the poor mostly ate
fruit and vegetables.Disparities in
diet between social
classes in Byzantium
were
enormous:
the lower
classes made do with
dry food
or
porridge,
while
the aristocracy
consumed
a wide variety
of foods at lavish
lunches
and
dinners,
though this did not
necessarily mean
that
the various
population
groups
went
without a varied diet.
Most
people apparently had two main meals a day. The first of these, called the ariston or
mesembrinon, was generally taken around noon
or slightly
earlier.
Dinner
time was usually
before dusk in the
evening,
though it could be served earlier, as the term aristodeipnon indicates, or very late
at night. There are also references to
additional meals, such as the prog(e)uma
or the prosphagon in the morning and
the deilinon in the afternoon,
apparently taken by members of the upper classes, thus increasing
the number of daily
meals to
four.
Flour,
olive oil and wine, the three mainstays of the Mediterranean diet, were the
staple foods in Byzantium.
These were produced both in the context of family production and consumption and
for trade, whether at the local level or on a larger scale.
Wheat
and other cereals were cultivated as food commodities in many parts of the
empire. In Late Antiquity wheat bread from Egypt was distributed free to the
inhabitants of Constantinople. The quality of
bread in later centuries varied according to buying power.
The best and most
expensive bread was the so-called katharos
artos made of finely sifted white flour, and semidalis, made of semolina, both of which were consumed by the
wealthier sectors of the population. In contrast, poorer people ate an inferior
kind of bread called mesokatharon or ryparon, or kyvaron, kneaded from a mix of low-quality flour. The lowest
quality bread was piteraton, made of
bran. Besides bread, a kind of sea biscuit known as dipyros artos or paximas
was widely eaten. This could be kept for a long time, and so was the main food
for soldiers on campaign and people on long voyages.
Because
olives have always thrived in temperate climates they were widely known
throughout the Mediterranean. Olive oil was a
major ingredient of Byzantine cooking and was produced in special presses. Up
until the 7th century olive oil was transported and traded in bulk
from North Africa and Palestine to Italy and the Balkans, but in later
periods trade seems to have been limited to the coastal areas and islands of
the Aegean. Olive oil and wine were
transported and stored in amphorae, also known as magarika from mid-Byzantine times onwards.
Viniculture
was so widespread that wine was produced in almost every part of the empire and
was rarely absent from meals; depending on its flavour, it was classified as
thick, thin, astringent (dry) or sweet. The most
famous
wines were those from Chios, Samos,
Thassos,
Pteleos
in Magnesia,
Crete and
Ganos. The Byzantines usually
drank
wine
warm
or
added
hot
water.
Other wine-based drinks
were also made, such as
kyminothermoni
and konditon. The
former
was brewed
with hot water,
cumin and
aniseed
spiced with
a little pepper,
whereas wine, honey and spices went into the latter.
The
Byzantine staple
diet
also included
proteins
and
carbohydrates. Domesticated animals were primarily bred for their
dairy products and eggs, not for their meat. Consumption of either fresh
or
salted
meat was very limited,
not only because it
was difficult to preserve,
especially during
summer,
but also
because
the consumption
of meat and
dairy products
was prohibited during the lengthy fasting periods.
However,
the fare of the wealthy included
lamb, goat, hare, rabbit, poultry, game (red and roe deer, wild boar)
and even frogs.
Pork was well
esteemed and was usually
cured
or
boiled with
vegetables.
Though considered
inferior, offal
was used to prepare foods similar to the
spit roast (kokoretsi, Byzantine plekte) and boiled (gardoumba, gardoumion) dishes eaten in Greece to this
day.
Fish
consumption was high, especially amongst the clergy and in monasteries. Fish and
seafood
were most
readily available
in
coastal, lake and
riverside
areas. Salt water fish were favoured
against fish from lakes
or
rivers,
and were usually
grilled, fried or boiled,
occasionally with
spices
and
herbs. Whilst
only the rich could afford to buy large and expensive white fish (mullet, bream, sea bass, sea bream and turbot),
other seafood like mackerel, sardines and bonito, as well as octopus, squid,
cuttlefish, mussels, crabs
and the ubiquitous salt fish were eaten by all and were always on demand in the
market.
Cheese
was produced in a wide range of types, with Vlach and Cretan varieties being
highly prized. Anthotyro and myzithra (soft cheeses) were widely
used, whereas white asbestotyro was
of a low quality intended for consumption by the poor.
Vegetables
and legumes were important seasonal side dishes for the rich, also serving as
main meals for the poor. During the fasts laid down by the Church they were
consumed by all. Vegetables were usually grown in kitchen gardens, or bought
from market traders or itinerant greengrocers. Lettuce,
cabbage, spinach, onions, garlic,
mushrooms, carrots, leeks, radishes, peas, beets and salad rocket were
commonest, as well as herbs like dill, mint, savoury and oregano.
The favourite legumes were beans, lentils, chickpeas (white and black) broad
beans and lupin beans. Housewives
pickled
large quantities of vegetables
in
brine
or
vinegar
for wintertime consumption.
The
Byzantines
got
their
carbohydrates
from fruit, which was their
main
dessert
and
a
daily staple for all.
They consumed many
varieties of apple,
pears, dried
and fresh
figs,
loquats,
quinces,
grapes
and
melons.
The emperor
would even hand out
apples
or
pears to
courtiers
at special
ceremonies to mark religious
feast days.
Nuts
such as walnuts,
almonds, hazelnuts and
chestnuts played a similar role to fruit. Various kinds of
sweetmeats featuring honey as the main sweetening agent served as desserts (epideipna or doulkia),
such as sesame
cake (sesamous), grape
jelly (moustopita),
quince cheese (kydonaton), honeyed
walnuts (karydato), various spoon sweets
and a kind of fritter
(laganon or lallangi).
Lastly,
pastry dough,
almonds, walnuts and honey
went into a dessert
called koptoplakous, which was probably the forerunner of
baklava.
The
Byzantines ate relatively simply. They mostly
grilled
seafood and ate raw and cooked vegetables,
soups and
on rare occasions meat.
Though very common in the modern Mediterranean diet, tomatoes, potatoes and citrus fruits were
totally unknown.
Food was flavoured by the addition of seasonings (salt and pepper, cinnamon,
cloves, various types of cumin, lavender, honey, vinegar, and garlic) and herbs
(dill, fennel, rosemary, oregano, capers). The most popular sauce was garos, made of small fry and fish offal
blended with salt and old wine, then boiled or left to brew in the sun for
around three months. This was used in different variations to flavour all kinds
of food (vegetables, meat and fish).
Finally, herb
beverages such as mountain tea
were common, as well as various fruit
juices.
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