The island
The presence of the Knights
Hospitaller on Rhodes for over two centuries determined
its course through history and shaped its character to such an extent that in
Greek popular thinking it has become known as the Island
of the Knights. However, Rhodes’ rich past,
splendid art, monuments and robust culture go back much further than the flourishing
medieval age of chivalry. There is definitive evidence of settlement from
prehistoric times.
The island was colonised by the Mycenaeans and subsequently
by the Dorians from the Argolis, who spread
into the south-west Aegean in the late 10th
century. It was this that led to the creation of the Dorian Hexapolis, a major
confederation of Dorian cities in the area, involving the three Rhodian cities
of Ialyssos, Lindos, and Kamiros, and the cities of Cnidos, Bodrum and Kos, with the temple
of Triopian Apollo at
Cnidos as their common religious centre. The Archaic era was a period of
progress and prosperity for Rhodes. The growth
of shipping extended trade relations, resulting in a thriving economy.
Archaeological finds from Kamiros attest to contacts with Asia Minor, Egypt
and mainland Greece,
while Rhodian vessels found in numerous places around the Mediterranean Basin
confirm the range of commercial destinations. This picture of prosperity is backed
up by the minting of coins, and the establishment of colonies, such as that set
up by the people of Lindos at Gela
in Sicily in
the first half of the 7th century BC. A turning point in the island’s history came
in 408-407 BC, when Kamiros, Ialyssos and Lindos founded the city of Rhodes as a new common
political and residential centre. Famed for its Hippodamian urban plan, the
island’s namesake flourished in Hellenistic times thanks to its wealth, power
and culture, reigning supreme among the cities of Rhodes.
With its five ports, the island played a key role as a trading post throughout
antiquity. Its power and culture were symbolized by one of the seven wonders of
the ancient world: the colossal statue of the god Helios, sculpted by Chares,
which dominated the sea entrance to the city. Rhodes
lost its prestige and experienced a downturn in late antiquity,
traumatized by events such as plundering by Cassius in 42 BC, a powerful
earthquake in 155 AD and invasion by the Goths in 269. In 297 it was
incorporated into the Province of the Islands
(Provincia Insularum); after the capital of the Roman
Empire was moved to Constantinople,
the island appears to have regained some of its earlier strength due to its key
position on the sea route linking the capital to the eastern and southern
provinces. However, earthquakes in 344 and 515 undermined smooth recovery.Christianity spread early to Rhodes, as it did
throughout the Aegean, and the island’s bishop
participated in the First Ecumenical Council at Nicaea in 325.
The general prosperity of the
early Christian period on the islands is attested on Rhodes
by the building of large houses and basilicas . The large three nave basilica unearthed to the east of the ancient citadel in Rhodes
town is one of the characteristic monuments of this era: measuring more than 60
metres in length, it has a three-aisled transept and is sumptuously
decorated with frescoes and wall and floor mosaics . Archaeological excavations
have brought to light two more basilicas in the medieval city, and
confirmed the existence of a significant Early Byzantine castle with a moat,
parts of a rampart and a walled citadel, on the site of the later Palace of
the Grand Magister. All the archaeological evidence suggests that the Early
Christian settlement was substantial, extending beyond the walled area. From
the 7th century onwards Rhodes shared the fate
of the Aegean islands, entering a period of stagnation, fear and decline due to
the appearance of the Arab peril. The Arabs raided and looted the islands,
including Rhodes, but failed to interrupt trade.
Late 7th and 8th century lead seals used by customs staff (kommerkarioi) on Rhodes indicate the island’s important role in Eastern Mediterranean commerce. In the mid-Byzantine
period Rhodes came into contact with the West.
In 1082 Alexius I Comnenus granted the Venetians permission to establish a
staging post there, thus consolidating the city's link with Western European
culture and rendering it a prominent trading hub once more. The robust economy
is reflected in intensive coin circulation during the 11th and 12th centuries,
as well as in artistic activity. The 11th century church of Our Lady
of the Castle served as the Orthodox Christian cathedral in Byzantine times, but
was converted into a Catholic cathedral after the Knights Hospitaller invaded Rhodes. The church
of Agios Fanourios dates
to the same period, as do the frescoes in the catholicon of the Archangel
Michael in Tharri.
After Constantinople fell
to the Franks in 1204, Rhodes was declared
independent by its commander, Leo Gavalas. The flow of westerners to the island
increased, paving the way for the arrival of the Knights Hospitaller. Having
lost their foothold in Palestinian territory after the fall of Jerusalem and the conquest of Acre in 1291, the Knights of the Order of St. John occupied Rhodes in 1309. This heralded an era of brilliance
for
the island and led to the development of Rhodes
town’s distinctive medieval character, which it retains to the present day. It
was in this period that Rhodes emerged as one
of the leading seaports in Europe. The
population grew and became increasingly multicultural, thanks to Greek, Frank
and Jewish merchants, travellers and soldiers. Economic vigour went hand in
hand with the growth of both shipping and small industry. The impact of all
these changes was reflected in society in the emergence of a stratified class
structure, with the wealthy nobles and the poor populace at either end. The
arts flourished over the centuries the knights were on the island.
New urban
planning and extensive building activity drastically altered the urban landscape.
The Byzantine tripartite division of the city was maintained as follows: (a)
the Command House or Palace of the Grand Magister was built on the
highest north-western point of the city; (b) the Castle or Collachium, in the
northern part of city, where the other important public and private
buildings were. These included the Inns of Tongues in
the Street of the Knights, the church
of Our Lady of the
Castle, St John's,
the hospital, the archdiocese, the knights’ quarter, the armoury and the naval
station. (c) The Chora (Burgus), located in the southern part of the city. The
paved Street of the Knights, measuring 200m in length and 6m wide, one of the
best preserved medieval streets, led from the Palace of the Grand Magister
to the harbour. The centre of commercial activity was the Magna et Communis
Platea or Macellus Rhodi in the market; it was a long street 50m in width that crossed
the city from west to east. The capture of Rhodes
by the Ottomans in 1522 brought the island’s golden era to an end. The city
changed appearance once again, as Greek neighbourhoods were created outside the
walls, existing public buildings were modified and several new ones erected, most
of which were mosques and baths. In 1912 Rhodes
and the entire Dodecanese came under Italian
rule. The Italians implemented an extensive program to restore monuments from
the time of the Knights, in some cases demolishing the Ottoman additions. They
also erected utility buildings and modernized the city. The island was
incorporated into the Greek state in 1948. Well preserved monuments created by
many cultures over time stand side by side in the medieval city of Rhodes, which was added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988 as an outstanding architectural ensemble.
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