The island
Chios is well-favoured in terms of its privileged
geographical location, topography, climate and natural resources, factors which
determined its character from early antiquity.
Neolithic finds from
Emporio and Agios Galas confirm that Chios was
settled early, and seems to have flourished and developed mainly in the years
after the Ionic colonization (11th-10th century BC). When a city-state was
established in the central region of the east coast, in around the 8th
century, it rapidly gained control of the entire island, ushering in a golden
age in shipping, commerce and the arts. Ancient times were to prove turbulent
and unsettled: signs of habitation
have been found from as early as the Neolithic period. In early Christian
times, Saint Isidore was martyred on Chios
during the persecutions of Decius (c. 250). Excavations have revealed that the
island flourished at that time, becoming a major trading hub on the sea route
that linked the new capital at Constantinople
to the eastern provinces of the empire. The emergence of Chios
as a centre of commercial activity was historically linked to the spread of
Christianity in the Aegean – both developments
are illustrated by the remains of early Christian
basilicas and coastal
settlements and by coin circulation. Among contemporary monuments, the Church of St. Isidore in Chios
town was first built in the mid 5th century as a three-aisled
basilica with a horseshoe-shaped conch.
In the mid-Byzantine
period the Aegean was plagued by Arab raids,
leading to stagnation on the islands once more. It was in this climate of
terror that Chios was pillaged by the Arab
caliph Moab
in the mid 7th century. This turbulent time of destruction, abandonment and
unsafe sea routes came to an end in 961, when Nicephorus Phocas recaptured Crete. Emperor Constantine IX Monomachus erected the castle of Chios and founded the monastery of Nea
Moni in the mid 11th century, strengthening ties between the island and Constantinople, as part of imperial efforts to restore
Byzantine rule over areas affected by the Arab peril. Nea Moni is the island’s
most prominent Byzantine monument and one of the most important in all
Byzantine culture; it greatly influenced religious architecture on Chios, as
attested by the churches modelled on it, such as the Virgin Mary Krina in
Vavili, the Church of the Holy Apostles in Pyrgi and the Church of St. George
Sikousis in the village of the same name.
A raid by the Turkish
emir Jahan in 1093, attacks by the Venetians in 1124 and 1171 and brief
subordination to the Latin State of Constantinople loosened Chios’
ties to the Empire and prepared it for the transition to Genoese rule. Under
the Treaty of Nymphaeum (1261), Michael VIII Palaeologus, Emperor of Nicaea,
secured the help of the Genoese in his attempt to recapture Constantinople
from the Franks. In exchange for this he granted them significant trade
privileges and gave them access to many Aegean ports. In Chios’
case, Genoese rule can be divided into two phases. In the first of these
(1307-1329), the Zaccaria brothers assumed control of the island from the
Byzantines after the latter failed to defend it against persistent Turkish
raids. Emperor Andronicus Palaeologus briefly recaptured Chios,
but in 1346 it was given back to the Genoese – this time to the Mahona Company owned
by the Guistiniani family. For the next 220 years the Genoese Giustiniani made successful
and effective use of the island’s produce (gum, wine, silk, citrus fruit) and
its trade and workforce, transforming Chios
into a large and prosperous commercial centre. Part of the Genoese plan for
more systematic and profitable exploitation of the island’s resources involved
establishing the quaint medieval fortified settlements in the south, known as
the Mastichochoria (mastic villages), at Anavatos, Pyrgi, Mesta and Olympi. Chios town and the fertile Kambos plain extending to south
proved favourable not only for citrus tree cultivation, but also for the
monumental architecture of Genoese towers.
The lengthy period of
Ottoman rule began in 1566, when Chios surrendered
almost without a fight to Piali Pasha, and came to an end with the island’s
incorporation into the newly established Greek state in 1912. The Ottomans
granted the islanders tax exemption, allowed the nobility to retain property
and established a local government and trade, providing Chios
with important advantages and enforcing a mild regime, though this failed to
prevent the island from falling into decline. A turning point in Chian society
was reached in the 18th century, with a move towards urbanization that
drastically transformed the prevailing climate and brought the island renewed
growth and prosperity. The expansion of trade to include the major markets of
the West created conditions for the organization of small-scale silk and gum
industries, leading to the growth of the city centre and bringing people in
contact with western education and culture. Via trade and related financial
activities the economy flourished hand in hand with education, as is illustrated
by the establishment of the Chios
School in 1792. Dark
moments in the island’s history include the pillaging and slaughter committed
by the Turks under Ali Kara in 1822, which shocked the European world, and the
devastating earthquake of 1881.
Glossary (3)
Paleo-Christian (early Christian) era:
in Byzantine history, the period that typically starts in 330 AD, when Constantine the Great transferred the capital of the Roman Empire from Rome to his newly-founded city of Constantinople, and ends with the death of Justinian in 565.
basilica:
type of large church, divided internally into three or more naves. The central nave was usually covered by a raised roof with windows that illuminated the space.
conch (Sanctuary niche):
Niche
in the eastern end
of a basilica. Semicircular on the inside, with a horseshoe shaped, rectangular or polygonal exterior.
Information Texts (3)
The city:
Constantinople, the capital city of the Byzantine
Empire, was built on the site of the ancient Greek colony of Byzantium, on the
triangular peninsula formed by the Golden Horn,
the Bosporus and the Sea
of Marmara. This was an excellent location that controlled trade
routes linking the Aegean to the Black Sea. Emperor Constantine founded Constantinople
in 330 AD as a city to rival Rome
in splendour, wealth and power. The city grew fast, leading to problems of
space and facilities, so Theodosius I extended it to the west by building new
strong walls that protected Constantinople
until the end of the Byzantine Empire.
The
city was laid out after Rome.
A main road, the Mese Odos, linked the palace to the Golden
Gate. On this road was the Forum, a circular plaza with a statue
of Constantine
mounted on a column, surrounded by public buildings. Theodosius I and Arcadius later
built more forums decorated with their own statues.
Following
the Nika riots in the 6th century, Justinian adorned Constantinople
with magnificent edifices, palaces, baths and public buildings. This time also
saw the construction of Agia Sophia (the Holy Wisdom), the church which served
as the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate throughout the Byzantine period.
During
the 7th and 8th centuries Constantinople faced
major problems that threw it into disarray: attacks by the Avars (a siege in
674) and Arabs (attacks in 674 and 717-718); natural disasters (a powerful,
destructive earthquake in 740); and epidemics (plague in 747). Limited building
activity resumed in the 8th and 9th century, mainly concentrated on
strengthening the city's fortifications.
With
the recovery of the Byzantine Empire from the
9th to the 11th century, Constantinople became
the most populated city in Christendom; the majority of inhabitants were
Greek-speaking, but many other ethnic groups lived alongside them, such as
Jews, Armenians, Russians, Italians merchants, Arabs and mercenaries from Western Europe and Scandinavia. Many public, private and church-owned buildings were erected at the time, with
an emphasis on establishing charitable institutions such as hospitals, nursing
homes, orphanages and schools. Higher education flourished, thanks to the care
of the state and the emergence of important scholars. This renaissance lasted
until the mid-11th century, when economic problems due to poor management set
in, compounded by the adverse outcome of imperial operations beyond the borders.
The
Crusaders left Constantinople entirely
unscathed when first passing through, but in the Fourth Crusade of 1204 the
Franks conquered and ransacked the city, slaughtering those inhabitants they
did not take prisoner or drive out. In 1261 the city was retaken by Michael
VIII Palaeologus, who rebuilt most of the monuments and the walls but proved
unable to restore the city to its former splendour and glory. Enfeebled as it
was, the empire was incapable of checking the advance of the Ottomans, and in
1453 Constantinople finally fell into their
hands.
The fall signalled the end of the empire. Nevertheless, the Byzantine intellectual
tradition remained significant, as many scholars settled in the Venetian dominions
of Crete and the Peloponnese,
as well as in European countries, conveying Greek learning to the West.
The castle:
The
turmoil and insecurity of the Arab raids against the Aegean islands in early
10th century declined significantly after the re-conquest of Crete by Emperor
Nicephorus Phocas in 961. During the period that followed, the seaways became
more secure boosting trade and the large ports were fortified as part of the
projects of the capital to secure order in the Aegean. The construction of the
Castle of Chios dates back to the last years of the 10th century, although
almost none of the Byzantine fortifications survive.
The castle is of an irregular pentagonal shape and encloses an area of 180,000 square meters and was built by the Genoese in the early
14th century. The fortified wall dividing the city into the Civitas Chii, the
area inside the city walls which was the seat of political and military
authority, and the Vorgo, the city outside the of walls.
Its present form is due partly to the additions and successive interventions of
the Genoese, the Venetians and the Ottomans, and extensive damage caused in the
19th century, by the bombing of 1828, the earthquake of 1881 and the demolition
of the southern part of the construction of the new harbor in 1896.
Both the land and sea walls of the castle were reinforced with nine bastions,
of which eight still survive today. The land walls were surrounded by a moat.
Three gates provided access to the interior of the castle: the Central Gate
(Porta Maggiore), at the southern end, the West Gate (Portello) and the Water
Gate (Porta di Marina), which has not survived.
Interesting buildings and monuments are preserved within the walls, including
the Palace Giustiniani, a two-storey building dated to the 15th century, the
seat of the Genoese administration, the Dark Prison, a place where in 1822 74
island notables were jailed and then hanged, the Ottoman cemetery Kara Ali- the
tower-observatory also known as Koulas, and the Cold Fountain, the main cistern
of the castle. Finally, inside the castle the church of St. George which was
converted into a mosque during the Ottoman occupation still survives.From this
phase also survive the Medrese and the fountain in the church courtyard.
The monastery complex of Nea Moni of Chios:
In the place of a small church built by three Chian
monks, John, Nikitas and Joseph to house the miraculous icon of the Virgin
Mary, was founded in the mid 11th century the magnificent monastery complex of
Nea Moni of Chios. The construction of Nea Moni relates, according to tradition,
to the prophecy of the three monks about the rise of Constantine IX Monomachos
(1042-1055) to the imperial throne. After his coronation Constantine, as a
reward for the prophecy, build a new church for the Virgin Mary, satisfying the
monks’ request. The catholicon was built and decorated with the lavish imperial
sponsorship, and inaugurated in 1045; later the monastery received many
privileges and donations from Constantine Monomachos and the emperors after him.
Nea Moni was modeled after the little church of the Holy Apostles in
Constantinople; it is an octagonal-type church with a narthex and exonarthex,
also known as nisiotikos. It is the oldest and most complete example of the
type and displays the strong architectural influence of the capital. The characteristic
of this type is that the octagonal shape of the church is not surrounded by the
perimeter of the building, but is formed as the square nave is converted into
an octagon in the upper floors, through four narrow squinches in the
corners, on which the twelve-sided dome in based; the dome rests
on the exterior walls without the mediation of internal supports, thus offering
an impressive result. Similar to the architectural character of the monument is
the interior decoration. The luxurious marble revetments combined with
the brilliant mosaic compositions attest to the economic prosperity and
welfare, and the imperial care to help the monasteries and the religious
institutions of this period. The mosaics of Nea Moni, works of high artistic
quality which reflect the trends of the capital, as far from the spirituality
and abstraction of the decoration of the Monasteries of Daphni and St. Luke.
The correct use of color, the golden background and the structuring of the
multi-person compositions give expressiveness and deep spirituality to the
forms. As a typical example of a Byzantine monastic complex, Nea Moni was
protected by high walls, which enclosed the catholic, the refectory, the
cistern and the cells. Nea Moni sustained significant damage in
1822, when it was burned and looted by the Ottomans, and by the 1881 strong
earthquake. In 1990 Nea Moni, the Monastery of Daphni and Hosios Loukas were included
in the International List of World Heritage of UNESCO, as a unique artistic
achievement and an excellent example of an architectural whole.
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