The church of the Archangel
The church of the Archangel
lies in the south part of Kastoria, in the cathedral parish, a short distance
from Omonia Square.
Reused architectural members such as columns, mullion bases and
imposts indicate that the church was probably built on the site of an Early
Christian
basilica .
From an architectural point of view the church is a 9th -10th
century basilica with narthex . On the inside, two colonnades
divide it into three naves; the central one ends in a semicircular conch ,
while the side naves end in smaller conches built into the thickness of the
wall. The raised nave has a barrel vaulted roof. The north nave was
later expanded and doubled in width, but still retains part of the eastern wall
and the conch. An oblong narthex
was added to the west of the church, covered by three vaults that divide the
roof into three sections corresponding to the tripartite division of the nave.
On the interior there are two successive layers of decoration. All that
survives of the first are a few poorly preserved fragments. Christ is visible
in the apse of the north nave and Matthew the Evangelist in that of the south
nave, added to which is a decorative band in a section around the sanctuary
apse. Over the entrance to the narthex in the east wall, parts of a
broader depiction of Advent show an imposingly large figure of an enthroned
Christ opposite Abraham, Isaac and Jacob, the three forefathers. Saints are
depicted in the arches, while the space over the south nave entrance has a half-length
depiction of Christ shown blessing. Although these fragmentary representations
do not help us to draw conclusions about this layer’s iconographic programme, in
stylistic terms they point to the first layer of wall paintings in Agios Stephanos
and the early frescoes of Cappadocian churches.
The second layer dates to 1359 -1360. Surfaces in the central nave are devoted
to scenes from the Dodecaorton and the Passion, alongside full-length
depictions of saints. The second layer paintings follow the
anti-classical tradition of contemporary churches in Kastoria and Ohrid, tending
towards a flat, linear rendition of forms and expressiveness in movements.
The outer west wall frescos feature full-length depictions of Panagia Hodegetria
(Our Lady of the Way) and Archangels Gabriel and Michael. At the foot of the
Archangel Michael there are smaller scale depictions of King Michael Asen of
the Bulgarians (1246-1256/7) and probably his wife Anna - not his mother Irene Comnena,
as argued until recently. The frescoes on the outer south wall depict local
officials and inscriptions dating to the 15th century, which provide important
information on the area’s people, clothes and art.
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