The monastery of Agios Nikolaos Anapausas
The Monastery
of Agios Nikolaos (St. Nicholas) Anapausas lies on a hill a short distance from
the village of Kastraki, and is built on one hundred and
forty-three stepped levels.
Visitors enter the monastery complex after climbing
eighty-five rock-cut steps. Space limitations on the flat summit meant
that the monastery had to be built upwards rather than outwards. Access to the main
living area is gained via the small narthex in the catholicon ; to
the right of this, after ascending successive flights of steps, visitors see
the refectory, the cells and other areas before reaching the rock plateau at
the top, which commands a stunning view.
Both the origin of the name, Anapausas, and the date of first habitation on the
rock remain unclear. The name is at times attributed to the etymology of the
word, from the verb “to rest”, and at times linked in an unsubstantiated way to
the name of an original founder. The monastery is believed to have been founded
in the 14th century, when the first catholicon was built. Scholars see it
as contemporary with the Chapel of Agios Antonios (St. Anthony), where wall
paintings dating to the same century still survive.
The
catholicon as it now stands was built in the early 16th century. It is an
irregularly shaped building, tailored to fit the rock plateau: a compacted
cross-in square church, with a dome supported by shallow pointed vaults. On the
east side of the building is an irregular Bema with a low conch , and on the
west a timber-roofed lite with a small niche. According to the
inscription painted on the eastern wall of the lite, above the door leading
to the nave, the paintings in St. Nicholas Anapafsas were commissioned in 1527
on the initiative of a deacon named Cyprianus, and are attributed to Brother
Theophanes Strelitzas Bathas, a Cretan monk. The paintings in Agios Nikolaos
are his first large-scale composition, and display consummate skill in dividing
up what is a lavish iconographic programme on numerous themes, with individual
scenes the size of portable icons. The artist’s gifts are evident in this
monument, which further exhibits influences from Palaeologan art: a firm and confident
hand; harmonious, balanced scenes free of anecdotal elements; an emphasis on doctrinal
content; clarity of composition; soft colors in harmonious combinations;
detailed rendition of faces deep in thought, with a profound humanism. The
themes are mainly drawn from the Christological cycle, although some subjects
previously unknown to monumental art are shown, such as the scene of Adam
naming the animals. The paintings in the small church at St. Nicholas Anapafsas
not only mark the inception of Theophanes’ career as an artist in mainland Greece, but
also stand as the forerunner of the Cretan
School, the formal
artistic expression of the Orthodox Church during the Ottoman period.
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