The monastery of the Transfiguration
The monastery was founded by St. Athanasius of Meteora, when he and his
spiritual father, Gregory, retreated to Meteora in around 1340 AD. The two
monks settled at Megalo Meteoro, in a hermitage located to the left of the staircase
leading to the monastery entrance. Brother Athanasius’ renown attracted an ever
increasing number of monks, leading to the establishment of the first coenobium
at Meteora, along the lines of Athonite monasticism.
The second founder was Joasaph, a disciple and successor of Athanasius. He was the son of Symeon Uroš
Palaeologus, despot of Epirus and descendant of the Serbian Nemanjić dynasty, who settled at Megalo
Meteoro in 1373. Joasaph collected sizeable donations and fostered a marked
increase in building activity, thus lending the monastery considerable
prestige.
The monastery became independent and stavropegic in the 16th century under
Jeremiah I, Patriarch of Constantinople. From that time on it flourished,
especially under brother Simeon, who was the founder of the new catholicon ,
the refectory and other smaller buildings in the Megalo Meteoro complex.
Over the course of its 600 year history the monastery has been attacked
and looted many times: by the Saracens in 1609 and by Arslan Pasha in 1616,
while it was extensively damaged by fire in 1633.
The monastery catholicon, the Church of the Transfiguration, is
perhaps the most impressive of the Meteroa catholica, and was built in
three construction phases. The Church of St. Athanasius belongs to the first
phase, and is a typical cross-in-square church , parts of which were
incorporated into the masonry of the newer Bema . The triconch
cross-in-square church erected by Athanasius’ successor Joasaph dates to the
second phase, when rebuilding and expansion work was carried out in 1388. The
new catholicon was built during the third construction phase, in 1545. Its
cloisonne masonry is finely crafted and, though not bombastic, commands
attention.
The wall paintings adorning the
interior of the church were likewise completed in three phases. The scene of
the Second Coming still visible on the exterior of the north wall belongs to
the first phase, shortly after 1388. The paintings from the old catholicon
- those on the present day Bema - date to 1483, with the exception of those
in the dome and the apse , which come from the third decoration phase, in 1552.
The dynamic, detailed, richly coloured decoration in the older catholicon,
completed over a period of thirty years, remains true to Byzantine iconography
and the composite designs of Palaeologan art, while also being enhanced by
secondary iconographic details from western art, notably Italian Late Gothic
painting. The entire composition of the old catholicon is attributed to a
workshop from Kastoria which was active in the region of Thessaly, Western and
Central Macedonia and the wider Balkan Peninsula (Serbia, Bulgaria, Moldova). The
sumptuous iconography in the new church is influenced by Athonite models and Palaeologan
traditions, with a modicum of fully assimilated loans from Western art. The
style and artistic choices made by the anonymous artists attest their close
relation to the Cretan School and Theophanes of Crete, who painted the Church
of St. Nicholas Anapafsas in 1527, while still a young man. Furthermore, the new
catholicon of the Transfiguration was quite possibly the work of the
Cretan painter Tzortzis, a pupil of Theophanes, together with members of his
workshop.
One remarkable feature of the
interior is the carved wooden templon , lavishly decorated in a multitude
of themes. The oldest surviving part of this lies over the sanctuary door; it
dates back to 1634/5 and is signed “by the hand of Master John”. However, most of the templon was
replaced in 1791, being the work of a certain Constantine from Linotopi and
Kostas from Metsovo.
Abbuting the
south side of the sanctuary is the Chapel of St John the Baptist, a small domed
building dating to the 18th century.
To the southwest of the catholicon
lies the chapel of Saints Contantine and Helen, built in 1789 under Abbot
Parthenios and financed by Dionysius the monk and his son priest-monk Zachariah.
The monastery refectory, founded
by Αbbot Simeon, was built to the north of the church and
inaugurated on August 10th 1557. It is a vaulted oblong building ending in a
polygonal apse to the east, and divided internally into two aisles by a five
columned colonnade . The building presently functions as a museum.
The monastery kitchen was built adjacent to the north side of the
refectory. A spacious square room covered by a hemispherical vault and crowned
by a small dome, it likewise serves as a museum open to visitors.
The monastery also had a hospital, located opposite the sanctuary of the
catholicon.
It was founded at
the same time as the nursing home, in 1572. In a previous phase this imposing
domed structure stood two storeys high.
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